I grew up my entire life in a home listening to stories
about the balad. I heard stories about my beloved father’s childhood, and how
the families of Jeddah lived together. My father regaled his children with the
history and the traditions of the old city. He made sure that we knew the
family members’ names, relationships, and common traits and characteristics.
The history of our family was important to him, the history of their trade and
how they came to be one of the first families to import pharmaceuticals into
the walled city. He took us on short visits to the old city almost every year
for our Eid Al Fitr family outings. It was interesting but quickly got boring.
As an adult and mother of three I loved Jeddah, but to me it
meant work, school, Al Baik, the malls, and family obligations. I never thought of the balad. The balad
was a part of the past, a part that was gone, and most certainly not a part of
me. I only saw the old city that I often visited with my father as a child on
rare occasions when I had to go to the market downtown, and with a swift look I
would see Bait Al Batterjee and simply think to myself “that is my Baba’s
home”.
Not anymore.

When we arrived at the Bahar gate we were greeted by our
tour guide, a son of the balad. A man who had been born there, he grew up there
and knew all the historical spots. He explained, pointed out ancient
structures, and gave us a brief history lesson of how the balal became what it
is today. We started our morning tour with “Gabil street” and ended with the
first American Embassy in Jeddah’s history “Bait Al Batterjee”. My heart sank!
This house that I had no feelings for suddenly had a meaning. It had a place in
the history of Jeddah. It was beautiful, and was located in a very special
spot, just like every other house in the city. Each and every structure had a
proud family, a story to tell, and a lifetime of history hidden within its
walls. How can we turn our backs on our home, or origin, our ancestors? This
Balad is where we began, where our fathers were born not long ago. How can we
feel so detached? Our city needs us.
Did you know that Al-Balad is divided into four main neighborhoods:
Harat Alsham (The Sham Neighborhood), facing north;
Harat Al-Yaman (The Yemeni Neighborhood), facing south;
Harat Mazloum (The Aggrieved Neighborhood), facing east;
and Harat Al-Bahr (The Sea Neighborhood).
Harat Alsham (The Sham Neighborhood), facing north;
Harat Al-Yaman (The Yemeni Neighborhood), facing south;
Harat Mazloum (The Aggrieved Neighborhood), facing east;
and Harat Al-Bahr (The Sea Neighborhood).
Did you know the Naseef house has 15 rooms on seven
floors and was erected about 150 years ago? It was made famous when King
Abdulaziz lived there. It was built by Omar Afandi Naseef.
Did you know that the tree in the square outside the front
door is now the oldest and was once the only tree in Jeddah? It is said that
Ibrahim Batterjee gave that tree as a gift to Omar Nassef. On the ground floor
there is a well that collects rainwater. Stairs wide enough to march camels up
bringing food supplies, lead up to the kitchen on the top floor; on the roof
above is the highest room, the open-sided Al-Teramanah which was used as a
dining and smoking area and caught the cool breezes high above the streets. The
original owners of the house also used to sleep on the roof in a namousia, a
bed covered with a sheer fabric to prevent mosquito bites.
Did you know that the Caliph
Othman bin Affan declared it the official port of the Holy Cities? The
construction of the wall took place in order to protect Jeddah against the
aggressors of that time, such as the Portuguese who, in 1516 AD, laid siege to
the city for three months. But, in spite of all, Jeddah continued growing in
importance and by 1825 --now under the control of the Ottomans-- began
receiving its first diplomatic representatives from Europe (France and
Britain). For that reason, it used to be called Bilad al Kanasil (The
City of Consulates). It was also known as al-Balad or just Balad, a name which it
still keeps today along with "Old Jeddah”
These questions and facts are only a few. These questions
and facts should raise awareness within our generations to seek more
information to try to find facts about our home, our origins, and our
ancestors; the men and women who lived here for centuries. Our ancestors have
much to tell us, to give us pride, and keep up our self confidence and esteem. Now
when I visit the balad and I see Bait Al Batterjee my heart screams “that is My
baba’s home!”